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Question: |
Our Answer |
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Need to replace the
motor. Don't know which to purchase. The spa has
been properly converted to 220 no longer 110.
Please recommend the motor, and a place to
purchase |
The Z145 used a
single pump, 2 speed motor. It's part F570 or
F570HD. The "HD" is the heavier model and has an
excellent track record. If your spa was built
after 1999 it probably has the F570 which is a
standard duty motor. If you live in the warmer
part of Cali, you probably can stay with the F570
pump/motor and do fine with that. If you are in
the colder parts, you should consider the "HD". |
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The problem now is
that when I turn on the spa, it makes a humming
sound and then the buss fuse pops. The little
error light comes on. I pulled and checked the
motor and both low and high speed work fine. What
do you think. Heater? How can you tell? |
It's the pump motor.
That is the only thing that can blow the 20a fuse. |
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pump leaking on 2
speed |
If a pump leaks you
have to make a
choice. If the pump
motor is over 5
years old, I always
recommend replacing
the pump/motor
complete. To me it
makes sense for one,
the normal life of a
motor and second,
the damage the
leaking pump water
could have done to
the motor, and
third, usually the
motor shaft gets
damaged enough that
just replacing the
pump won't seal.
But the choice is
yours. You said you
have a Lexus. Lexus
came in 2 configs.
The first simply has
2 X 1hp pump/motors.
So they would be
2500-250.
Some Lexus came with
the #1/circ/heater
pump being a 1hp and
the #2/High pump
being a 3hp pump.
If you need a 1hp
pump, that's
#CC-1jp. If a 3hp,
that's #CC-3jp.
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I blew the fuse in
the control box. I believe it is a 20 amp ? fuse.
It's not the clear fuses it is the larger of the
fuses. It says 600v power limiting fuse. It has
gone out periodically the past few years but I'd
replace it and it would start up again. Yesterday
it went out and I bought 2 new fuses. It blew
both of them. I couldn't get it to take one to
start up again. Any ideas? I put in a new
pressure switch this past summer. Is there
something I need to have an electrician check out?
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It's the pump motor.
It draws it's
current through that
fuse. ALWAYS, when
that fuse blows,
it's the motor. You
need to replace with
either the F570 or
F570HD.
What happened was
the motor was
failing and drawing
more current. The
fuse is a time delay
and over time can
wear out. You
replaced and the new
fuse could handle.
Problem is that the
motor is getting
worst and worst time
finally it's over
the top.
Replace the pump and
fuse and you should
be good to go.
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I am looking to
purchase a complete pump and motor assembly for
Jacuzzi Echo z140 spa. The current motor is a
magnetek 7-184803-23. It is 230 volts |
The Z140 has 2 X
2500-250 pump/motor completes |
#1 motor tries to
start buy just gives it like a fraction of a turn
and stops. (kind of like the bearings are frozen
and won't turn) It continues this every 10 seconds
or so. I unplugged it and plugged in motor #2 to
the #1 plug outlet. It runs fine.
I drained the tub and removed motor #1. While
motor #1 was sitting on the deck beside the tub I
plugged it back up and it ran!. I tried it several
times (not allowing it to run but for a few
seconds) and it worked every time. I reinstalled
it and filled the tub back up. When I turned on
the power it wouldn't run again. I measured the
power at the back of the motor and get 120v on
both sides.
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Yeh, that's a common
description of a
failed motor. If you
want to try to fix
the motor, you could
buy a starter
capacitor that might
do it. We don't sell
them but you could
try. Old timers call
it a "low" spot.
Since pumps are
critical for a spa
and
time/labor/dependability
is critical, I only
will replace with a
new pump/motor. But
that is the throw
away world we live
in. Since labor is
high and parts low,
we throw.
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The button that turns on the light and motor works
intermittently, and the red light will sometimes
blink. It's been raining here a lot, and now when
you turn on the disconnect switch there is a buzz
in the control panel for 15 seconds and nothing
will work. The control panel number is # H136000.
I would also like to know if I can purchase an
ozone system for this model. |
The buzz is probably
coming from the
motor. It's the
common thing to have
with systems with a
H136 system. You
need to replace the
pump/motor. If you
are in a warm
climate, the F570 is
OK. IF you are in a
cold climate, the
F570HD is more
reliable but the
F570 can still give
years of service.
It's just we have
had more success
with the F570HD.
You will find that
at: http://www.clearcreekspas.com/pumps.html
Since you are just
installing, you need
to order with a
mazzai. Once you
have a mazzai
installed, you never
need another one.
The first Ozonator
listed w/mazzai for
$149.00 was the unit
sold when your spa
came out. About 2000
they came up with a
better system and
that's the
2472-650-M. It makes
more ozone gas and
has a replaceable CD
chip. I would highly
recommend that.
When you order, let
me know and I can
email you some
instructions that
will make install
easier.
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have a Z100 model
G175000. I have previously replaced the heating
element and hi-limit switch. Then it started
overheating and the hi-limit switch would cut it
off, but it would get hot. Now it clicks
constantly and I see the heater light flickering
and it never really gets hot. Thermostat? Also I
replaced a bad power cord, but with the GFCI at
the receptacle. Is that ok? Thanks for the help.
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OK, do you get water
movement? The
heater should NOT
come on unless the
water is moving.
If the pump is not
going and the heater
light flashes, it
probably means the
unit doesn't see
water movement and
is doing nothing
until it does.
If the pump is
moving water and
it's not heating,
first thing to try
is removing the
filter, unplugging,
and plugging in. If
that doesn't solve
the problem let me
know.
Finally, there
should be a pause of
about 5 secs from
the time you plug
the spa in to the
pump actually going
on. Is there?
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I don't know the Model Name
or the year of purchase. I have a Jacuzzi
Whirlpool Bath Pump (Model # s55cxnfe-7055), 230
volts, 1563 and 1795 pump. I need a new one can
you help me? |
OK, since it's a
230v I am assuming
it's an outside spa.
Now, is the pump
white or black? If
white, it's a pre-93
model. If black,
post-93. Finally we
need to ID the size
of the pump and I
can match motor and
give you the
pump/motor complete.
IF white, it's
either has a label
on the white pump
saying 8501 or 9011
or like. If not,
then how many jets
does the spa have?
Also I need to know
if you have one or
two pumps.
IF black, it's
either a 1hp or 3hp
pump/motor. If it's
the pump closest to
the heater (top pipe
out of pump goes to
heater) then it's
the low/circ/filter
pump; that's 1hp or
an F569. If it's the
other one, if the
second one LOOK
identical, then it
too is a F569. If
the second pump has
the piping coming
into the center of
the pump and not the
lower snout, that is
a 3hp pump.
Finally, white and
black are not
interchangeable. If
you want to convert
white to black, it
will require some
plumbing change. I
can walk you through
that if you can send
me picture of the
pump area.
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I have a small (4
person) Jacuzzi tub. I think the model name was
ESSENCE. It was purchased about 5 years ago from
Home Depot. It is the tub that can be connected
to either 110 or 220 Volts. I have it on 220.
The pump has stopped. When I press on the
electronic control panel to turn on the jets, I
can hear a relay click, but the pump does not come
on. Is there a reset button on the motor? Do you
sell a replacement? |
IF you have a spa
that's either
120/240vac, it's a
single pump, 2
speed.
Most likely what
happened is the
motor has begun to
fail and has blown
the onboard fuse. If
it does that, the
life of the motor is
down to minutes. But
you can replace the
onboard fuse which
is at least a SC-20
you can get at
Lowes.
Once you replace the
fuse, it could blow
instantly or after a
period time. IF it
doesn't blow
instantly, then the
gap between blows
will shorten
quickly.
If the fuse has not
blown, then it's the
pump/motor. If you
are in a warm
climate you can get
the F570. If you you
live in a colder
climate, I recommend
the F570HD but the
OEM could be the
F570.
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last
week the motor overheated but when it cooled down
it ran fine until this week I turned it off to
drain the water and when i had it refilled and
tried to turn it on there was nothing. |
That's pretty much
describing a failed
pump motor. Do you
hear a hum when you
first turn on the
spa? IF so, you
need to make sure
it's not related to
the pump. To do so,
you remove the cap
on the motors end in
the middle. This
will expose a slot
end of the motor
shaft. Turn the
shaft clockwise. If
it turns freely, the
pump is likely OK.
If you can't turn
the shaft, likely
the pump is the
reason for the
failure.
Once we determine
that, I can give you
your options. I need
either the model
name of yours spa or
a picture of the
equipment so I can
ID what you have.
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I
have to replace the seal on the motor shaft how do
I get the pump off of the motor? I have taken off
the four screws. The seal has been leaking for
awhile and it is rusted. Is the impeller supposed
to slide off or screw off? |
In almost all cases,
when the shaft
between the pump and
motor gets rusted
and since you said
it's been leaking
for awhile, it makes
no sense to replace
the seal only.
Before we go
further, I would
ALWAYS replace the
pump/motor complete.
Water has been
sucked into the
motor and has likely
damaged it. It is
likely that you can
get the pump onto
the motor only to
have it fail soon. I
wouldn't do it.
But your the
customer. First,
remove the front of
the pump. That is
the volute. You will
see the impellor;
the fan like part.
The motor shaft
screws into the
impellor. Normally
on the other end of
the motor you remove
the cap and there is
a slot for a
screwdriver. You
turn the shaft and
the impellor
releases. This
probably won't work
in your case.
Since it's rusted,
the impellor and
shaft are likely
melded. To release,
take a vicegrip and
clamp on the motor
shaft. Now turn the
impellor like you
are unscrewing it
(you are). This is
where the damage
starts. Usually you
damage the impellor
doing so and have to
replace. So not you
have to replace the
impellor and seal.
Often, the pump
bracket or the main
part of the pump is
also damaged and you
have to replace
that. This is why I
only sell the pump
kit. It's everything
but the motor. Then
you are done with
it.
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i
want to kno wat the horse power on the Z-150 on
the j pump. 230 volt 57 amp 3450 rpm v48y should i
order cc-ijp or cc-2jp ?? for the pump kit thank
you in advance
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The Z150 uses 2 X
1hp pump/motors. Get
the CC-1jp kit.
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Thanks for your quick reply. I followed your
instructions and initially
the pump motor seemed to come on but then the
circuit breaker flipped.
Any subsequent try immediately threw the breaker.
On previous attempts, if I could bang it with a
hammer and get the pump
actually going, it wouldn't throw the breaker
until the next heater
on/off cycle. The tech at the time said it was the
shaft of the motor
gets rusty and catches the centrifugal switch so
it won't turn back on
to the heat cycle. He sprayed WD-40 and cautioned
that it may or may
not solve my problem but that the next step would
be to replace the
motor. Their cost for a motor is $290 plus tax,
with the rubber seal.
Either way I want to save the service call. Do
you think I can remove
the motor and clean up the shaft?
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OK, the motor
NORMALLY won't pop
the gfci.
Let's check what
does. Turn off main
power and remove the
metal cover on the
control box. (a 1997
Alexa should have an
electronic control
box. If not, let me
know.)
You will see 2
copper straps
running from the
heater posts to the
pcboard. Unscrew the
connects to the
pcboard and
CAREFULLY bend the
copper about 1/8"
away from the board.
Do both. I say
carefully because
the heater posts can
bend and break.
Now power up the
spa. Does it STILL
pop the gfci? If
so, you are right,
it's the motor. If
not, it's the
heater.
On motors, I only
replace. Down time
and repeat service
doesn't make
rebuilding any sense
anymore... at least
for me. But you
could take it to a
local motor repair
shop and see if it
makes sense to you.
I did talk to a
motor rebuild shop
and they said they
tried rebuilding
these motors but
they concluded it
wasn't worth their
time to offer doing
so. But you are the
better judge of
that.
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I
have a Jacuzzi z-135 spa. When the pump starts to
heat and/or filter it draws excessive current. It
spikes at about 30 amps and then runs normally at
about 3.9 amps. This causes the slow blow fuse to
fail on the main board after several weeks. This
is the second motor since purchase and was
replaced with the o.e.m. motor. Is this a motor
problem? If so will the h.d. motor you offer help
solve the issue |
Actually you hit the
nail on the head. These motors when the wear out
do
exactly what you describe. When someone writes
that the fuse has failed,
it's the motor. You just understand why.
OK Standard verses Heavy Duty. Originally Jacuzzi
used the HD they went
to the standard duty. I was simply a cost
decision. The standard lasts
but also have a high failure rate with me. So I
went out and hunted
down the heavy duty they used and now sell them.
To be honest, I see
the standard duty last just as long as heavy. But
I see more standard
duty fail within 3 years then the heavy. That is
why I offer both. I
only install the HD. I want the customer to get
about 5 years out of
the motor and they usually do. With the standard
duty I was replacing a
lot with a year or two.
In short, it's much like a 4 cyclinder verse 6. If
I was a little old
lady in Atlanta I would get the 4. If I was me, I
would get the 6. They
both have the same warranty but I know the 6 is
better.
Hope that helps. Both are at:
http://www.clearcreekspas.com/pumps.html
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The
hot tub came with a house we bought and I don't
have much informatiion but I believe it is either
an Essence model 310 or Echo model Z110.
The pump hums but does not start. the motor is
labeled Emerson Motor Company St Louis, MO 1563
1nd 1795 motor. Model C55CXGYF-3865 CAT SF
The spa plugs int a 110 volt outlet and has a GFI
on the cord.
I believe I need your F570HD J-Pump/Motor, 2speed,
115v (Complete).
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You hit it right on
the nose: it's an
F570HD. You can find
it at:
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