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Pressure/Flow Switches |
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Question: |
Our Answer |
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All functions on the
spa (heater, air, water jets, filters) work when I
energize the spa. When I turn it off the FLO
message appears (steady, not blinking) after 10
seconds and locks the control board. I then have
to turn off the electricity to the spa and
reenergize it to heat and use it. |
The problem is the
pressure switch. You
might be able to
adjust so lets try.
Turn off main power.
Open wood access.
Strapped to the
bottom of the
control box is a
steel tube; that's
the heater.
On the left
backside, screwed
into the heater is
the pressure switch.
It has 2 wires
coming out of it.
If it has a gray
shell, remove and
discard. If it has a
piece of tape
holding the black
adjust wheel, remove
and discard.
Turn the wheel one
full turn clockwise.
If it turns easy,
that should do it.
If not, hope. Turn
and and see if that
resolves the
problem. If so, you
will need to replace
soon. The switch is
getting bad and not
responding quick
enough for the
pcboard. So you
replace.
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Ordered pressure
switch. Please
forward
instructions on
how to install.
thank you
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Changing Pressure
Switch with Digital
Topside.
Turn main power off.
Remove wood access.
Remove control box
cover. You will see
the heater tube
running along the
bottom of the box.
Screwed into the
middle is the
pressure switch.
Note the placement
of the switch. When
installing the new
switch you have to
end up with the
switch in the same
area.
You are going to
turn the complete
heater toward you.
To do so, remove
both bolts holding
the copper straps to
the pcboard. Now
remove the two nuts
holding these straps
to the heater posts.
WARNING !!! The
posts on the
heater are very thin
and will
bend and break. Use
a wrench above and
below the straps to
loosen the nuts. You
will see a place for
the lower wrench
that will steady the
post and allow the
tension to be on the
wrench and not the
post. If you have
any questions, ask
before.
Next you want to
turn the heater. To
do so, remove the
bolt holding the
heater that's
located behind the
heater posts. Loosen
the other three
bolts. Now loosen
the ends of the
heaters where they
attach to the spa's
plumbing. You should
now be able turn the
heater towards you
and make the
pressure switch
available to
unscrew. Unplug the
two wires to the
pressure switch. Put
plumbers putty OR
teflon tape on the
threads of the new
switch. Now place a
LOT of paper towels
or even a cloth
towel over the
pcboard to assure no
water will squirt
onto the board. Take
a 1/2" open wrench
and unscrew the old
switch. Swap old
with new and tighten
to snug.
FYI: you only want
to go one way when
tightening. It's
better to stop at
the place you want
to stop then try to
go around one more
time and not be able
to. If you backoff
(loosen), then there
is a good
possibility it will
leak.
Attach wires either
way and reverse. If
you do get water on
the pcboard, just
let it thoroughly
dry before turning
on.
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Problem:
#1 the control screen was flashing back and forth
from the present temp to FLO. There was also no
heat. The Heating element and flow switch was
replaced. This appeared to fix the problem.
#2 however, after 3 days only FLO was showing (no
flashing) and all the controls were inoperable.
The pump motor was determined to have a bad
winding. Will replacing this motor fix the
problem? What motor should I use?
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The solid FLO means
the pcboard sees a
failure with the
pressure switch.
Usually easy to
correct by adjusting
the pressure switch.
Turn off main power.
On the left backside
of the heater,
screwed into it is
the pressure switch.
If you have a gray
shell covering it,
remove and discard.
If you have a piece
of tape or metal
clip holding the
black adjust wheel,
remove and discard.
Turn the wheel one
full turn clockwise.
That should do it.
If not, turn one
more turn or go the
opposite way (in
case you are turning
it the wrong way).
If that solves it
and it's a new
pressure switch, you
are fine. If it's an
old one, you will
need to replace
soon.
If the pump does NOT
come on, pull one
wire off the
pressure switch and
power up again. If
the pump DOES come
on, the heater will
not come on unless
you plug it in while
the pump is running.
If you run into this
and adjusting
doesn't do the
trick, you need to
replace the pressure
switch.
IF unplug one wire
and the pump does
not come on, then
the pump is probably
a problem. But that
should give you a
flashing FLO, not a
Solid FLO. Solid FLO
either means the
pressure switch is
troubled or the
pcboard itself. It's
rarely the latter,
likely the former.
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have a Jacuzzi spa
which I purchased in 1998. I have searched, but
located no exact model name. The heater ur/cur
model # is C2550-0535, Balboa
model#50080,electrical rating 240v/5.5 kw (runs
off standard household circuit also), serial
#52898-0316; Spa Model #5000,000; another
#h136000;another#h136-ccah.
In September 2004 I was experiencing problems with
the spa not heating up. I purchased a new pressure
switch and control panel from your company and it
has worked since then, but did not seem to heat up
as hot as it did when new. Now, as of recently it
is only heating up luke warm and the light in the
control panel is flickering on and off all the
time.
I would suspect I need to replace the heater
assembly, however, I'm not sure of which one from
your parts list is the correct one. Any advise you
could provide which may cure the problem; and the
appropriate heater assembly part number to order,
would be appreciated.
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The "H-136" is the
key.
OK, first thing to
try is easy. Turn
off main power and
remove and leave the
filter out. Turn on
main power. When the
unit comes on, does
the heater light
come on steady? If
so, leave the filter
out and let run for
a couple days
without. If it works
fine now, replace
filter.
Second, if not, walk
me through what
happens. Something
like pump comes on
but heater still
flashes (that can be
usually fixed by
adjusting the
pressure switch. To
do so turn the black
wheel one full turn
counterclockwise and
see it that works.)
Or spa heats up and
then shuts off and
then the heater
light starts
flashing. Anything
like that. When the
heater fails it
usually just runs
and runs with the
heater light solid
on or it pops the
gfci. Since it's
doing neither, I'm
thinking either the
filter will solve
the problem or
adjusting the
switch.
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first it would take a day and a half to heat
up,then it started to take longer and longer,then
it would never get up to temp.So i started
checking stuff.The heater element was bad ( burned
in two ) so i replaced it and now it does not heat
at all.I have 120 to ground on either leg of
incoming power.I have 120 to ground on each leg og
heater element.Across the incoming i have
240,across the heater I get 0. and i do have 11
olms across the heater element.those are the tests
i have done so far any suggestions ????? |
Probably your
pressures switch but
try the filter
first. Turn off the
power. Remove and
leave the filter out
for this test. Turn
power on. There
should be a CLICK
and the heater light
should come on for
about 5 seconds.
Then another CLICK
and the #1 pump
comes on. Then about
5 secs the heater
light should come
on. Where in that
sequence does the
spa fail?
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