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Jacuzzi Whirlpool Bath most common spa heater from 1994-2001
For Use on F106-108, H136, H276, and H716 Series Control Systems.
2600-050-11-096
5.5kw Heater; 15"
Comes With Generic Pressure Switch

$199.00
18-802 Universal 5.5kw Replacement Heater Assembly less pressure switch $139.00
         

Heater Below Used On Jacuzzi Whirlpool Bath R574 and R576 Control Boxes

2000-688-11
4.0kw; 15"
  $199.00
2000-684-11-019
5.5kw; 15"
  $199.00

Comes As Pictured with Pressure Switch and OH Sensor

 
All Individual Parts Below Fit 2600-050 and 2000-684/688 Heaters
6560-005-19-005 2" Tailpiece Only $5.99
6000-176-19-420 Repair Coupling Only $9.90
19-018 Heater Gasket Only $2.49ea
19-421  2" Repair Assembly with tailpiece, coupling, and gasket. $16.90
10-440 4.0kw Element $56.00

10-1018 5.5kw Element $49.00

 

This Element Is Coated to Help Extend The Life
Of The Element. For Those With Troublesome
Water.
10-017 4.0kw Element w/Coating $76.12

10-016 5.5kw Element w/Coating $76.12

What's the difference between 4.0kw and 5.5kw?

The kw rating of a heater tells you how much current draw the element will demand and thus the amount of heat it will produce. So a 4kw will draw less than a 5.5kw so heat slower but use less electricity. But it can make sense to use the 4kw over the 5.5kw. Since it draws less current the element can actually last longer. Think 40w bulb and 100w bulb. 40w will last longer BUT less light. Some even swear by the less demand on the heater relay and extends the longevity of the board. You be the judge of that. But if heating 4-5 degrees per hour is fine for you instead of 5-6 degrees of a 5.5kw, a 4kw might make sense in the long run.

Should I buy a coated element?

Some have constant battle with their water quality claiming that they are using the right chemicals and not too much, and still go through heater elements in a year. You should expect to get at least 5 years. If your elements fail in a shorter time AND you DO take care of your water,  then a coated element might make sense. They don't carry any longer warranty. Experience is that if the element is going to fail, it will within a very short period of time. After that, the element will show signs of damage and void the warranty. The manufacturer's take is if the water quality is maintained, the element has no reason to fail. So typically, when submitting elements for warranty they are always rejected due to "poor end-user water quality". But we offer these for those who want to try a coated element.

What makes an element fail so soon?

OEM feel if the element works when you start up, it will continue to do so and the only reason to fail is the water chemistry is not good. I have customers with a heater that is 10 years old and fine and others that replace every couple of years. Why? Several reasons come to mind.

First, dry start up. If there is air at the element when it comes on that air pocket can allow the element to overheat and damage that spot. You can tell by blisters on the element. More likely its your water chemistry. Not keeping the filter clean (and therefore water moving over the element), too many chemicals, too little chemicals, or wrong chemicals (Pool chemicals do not equal spa chemicals. They are different environments.). Any/all of these can damage your seals and the heater element. I know, you don't do any of these but those that keep a good eye on the water's chemical balance have long lasting components. I had one customer that had every rubber gasket in his spa fail. Massive parts failure? Not likely; bad water.

Really, long/short is the element is NOT an expensive item. It IS troublesome to replace. But a failing heater is a warning that other plastic and rubber parts failure might be close at hand.

 IMPORTANT! See Picture To Left On How To Correctly Install a new element or heater assembly. You MUST use wrench on both top nut and a 1/4" wrench on the bottom to protect the heater's post. Failure to do so can void the warranty. Place your mouse over the pic to explode.

 

These Heaters ONLY Apply to Z101 and Z112 Spa Models
2000-301-11

Z101 Model; 9"

Pressure Switch Is Inside Control Box

$148.07 (limited stock)

2000-682-11

Z112 Model; 9"

Pressure Switch is in Front of Heater

$199.00 (comes with NEW Pressure Switch)

 

This Heater Was Only Used on Early Pinnacle Model Spas by Jacuzzi

2000-300-11
6kw Low Flow; 16.75" Long
Does Not Come With Pressure Switch
NOTE:
This is a LOW flow heater. You must use this heater. Standard heaters will get too hot and cause an OH condition.

$249.17


 

 

Although the Foam Cover is Optional, Its Recommended
This Heater was used by Jacuzzi on spas with small circulation pumps and the
heater is on the left side of the control box.

6560-012-11-501
Foam Cover (recommended)
$13.25

6500-301-11-500
5.5kw Vertical Low Flow Heater
$289.00

 
Heater Education
To Make You a Spa Brain

How They Work: Heaters basically resist current flow and doing so heat. Most common rating of heaters is 5.5k although some models have 4.0kw. A 5.5kw heater operating at 230vac you should see a 5-6 degree per hour water temperature increase. 

How do they Fail? The "official" statement from those who make heaters is that if it doesn't fail instantly, the only reason afterward is enduser water quality. We did service on one brand that only warrantee their heaters up to the first use. After that, nothing. Again, the belief is that enduser water quality or lack thereof causes heaters to fail. We no longer service those spas.

But in the field, its hard to determine. Yes, likely the most common reason the heater fails is water quality but there is only so much an enduser can do. Some ask why don't they make elements that last but my answer has always been the same; would you pay 3x what you pay now for a "better quality" heater? In reality, most of us would not. So we try to maintain heaters and see what happens. I have seen the same style heater last less than a year and more then 10. So maybe there is something to the industry's blame.

We now offer "treated" heater elements. They have a coating to extend their life.

In most cases, you can see corrosion on the element and that explains the failure. BUT.. elements can have pinholes and that pinhole will leak current and the gfci senses and POP. So I have seen heaters over the years that looked fine yet the element somewhere is shorting out and the GFCI pops. Solution is replacement.

 

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Click Here To See Excerpt From Our In-house Repair Manual

If you don't know which you have, go to PARTS MATRIX  for help or Ask the tech  

 

 

 

 

 

   
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